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    <title>Bang On</title>
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    <id>tag:bangon.dewalters.net,2009-07-02://1</id>
    <updated>2009-02-28T01:04:37Z</updated>
    
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<entry>
    <title>Brewing Diary: McMurtrie&apos;s Girvan Heavy Ale</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://bangon.dewalters.net/articles/brewing-diary-mcmurtries-girvan-heavy-ale" />
    <id>tag:bangon.dewalters.net,2009://1.19</id>

    <published>2009-02-24T07:49:44Z</published>
    <updated>2009-02-28T01:04:37Z</updated>

    <summary><![CDATA[Make the transition from Kit- to Extract/Speciality&nbsp;Grain Brewing. Start by freshening that can of kit extract with your own grains and hops....]]></summary>
    <author>
        <name>Gareth</name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Food and Drink" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-US" xml:base="http://bangon.dewalters.net/">
        <![CDATA[Make the transition from Kit- to Extract/Speciality&nbsp;Grain Brewing. Start by freshening that can of kit extract with your own grains and hops.]]>
        <![CDATA[<h2>Introduction</h2>

<p>This beer is hopefully the last kit, or hopped malt extract beer I brew. I added steeped grains and hops to the kit  to help freshen the flavour of the final product. Sometimes kit beers can taste a little stale or tangy. Despite the problems I had with cooling and high brewing temperatures this beer turned out well. The alcohol content was not has high as I feared it might be and  did not end up  dominating the flavour profile of the beer. I would brew this style again using  malt extract, grains and hops (not a kit). I would also brew in a cooler climate or artifically cool the fermenter during  brewing to help preserve the ale yeast. </p>


<h2>Ingredients</h2>
<h3>Grain Bill</h3>
<ul>
    <li>250 gm  Crystal Malt </li>
</ul>
<h3>Malt Extract</h3>
<ul>
    <li>1.8 kg Munton's Scottish Style Heavy Ale (hopped malt extract) </li>
    <li>1.8 kg  Munton's Pale Malt</li>
</ul>
<h3>Hops and finings </h3>
<ul>
    <li>25 gm Willamette  </li>
    <li>Irish Moss</li>
</ul>
<h3>Yeast</h3>
<ul>
    <li>Safale S-04 Dry Ale yeast</li>
    <li>Champagne yeast (back-up yeast; re-pitched after Dry Ale yeast failed dur to high temperature) </li>
</ul>
<h2>Target Bitterness</h2>
<ul>
    <li>low to medium </li>
</ul>
<h2>Method</h2>
<p>This beer was brewed as per the method described in '<a href="/articles/the-how-to-brew-digest">The How to Brew Digest</a>', except as described below. </p>
<h3>Brewing notes</h3>
<p>In order to achieve a higer gravity, the recipe on the tin of Munton's Scottish Style Heavy Ale called for a total brewing volume of 17, rather 20 litres.</p>
<p>I didn't have the correct equpiment on brew day (large enough boiling pot, wort chiller) and consequently fouled up the  cooling process. The  brew was slighty too hot when the yeast needed to be pitched. Given time constraints I had no choice but to pitch yeast at sub-optimal temperature. In future I will always allow plenty of time for brewing and get the right equipment for the job. </p>
<p>The brew was put down on  1 December 2008. An excellent krausen formed within 24 hours. The beer contined to brew at a moderate rate for three to four days  and then declined. Very slow bubbling observed from this point on. At this time it was mid summer with high night and daytime temperatures at the top-end of Dry Ale yeast's range. The yeast eventually 'topped-out' in the high heat and fermentation stalled. Internet research revealed that Champagne yeast might help re-start fermentation as it works well in high alcohol/high temperature conditions. Pitched Champagne yeast three weeks after start of original fermentation. Fermentation successfully re-started and continued for a another two weeks. I took the final hydrometer reading which revealed a gravity of just above 1000 (i.e.: same gravity of water!). This reading indicated the Champagne yeast had done its job and converted much of the sugars to alcohol. I was concerned I might have left the fermentation go too long before taking final hydrometer reading and produced an overly dry beer, lacking flavour (risk of using final Champagne yeast) </p>
<p>The beer was bottled after over five  weeks in the primary fermenter and racked-off to the secondary fermenter immediately before bottling to reduce the amount of sediment  that made it into the bottle. No off-smells or flavours were noted immediately prior to bottling, so likely no infection was introduced during pitching of the Champagne yeast. </p>
<h3>Tasting notes</h3>
<p>Courtesy of PS.</p>
<dl>
    <dt>Colour</dt>
    <dd>Dark amber or deep reddish-brown</dd>
    <dt>Clarity</dt>
    <dd>fair, some haziness</dd>
    <dt>Carbonation</dt>
    <dd>low (appropriate for the style)</dd>
    <dt>Head retention</dt>
    <dd>good, considering low carbonation.  Had a thin cream-like layer of head throughout the entire glass. </dd>
    <dt>Maltiness</dt>
    <dd>Malty!</dd>
    <dt>Hoppiness</dt>
    <dd>low (again, fitting with the style)</dd>
    <dt>Homebrewyness/Off flavours</dt>
    <dd>None that I can taste.  Of course, I'm used to/like homebrew, so I may be more forgiving/unaware</dd>
    <dt>Aftertaste</dt>
    <dd>quite clean, possibly a function of the champagne yeast?</dd>
    <dt>Alcohol</dt>
    <dd>I can feel it slowing my fingers after about 250ml. Also can feel warmth in back of mouth.  This is not a session beer</dd>
</dl>
<p>My first reaction was that this reminded me of The Kettlehouse's well-received, award winning Cold Smoke.  Then I remembered that Cold Smoke is more of a "light black" than a deep amber or reddish brown. I also remembered that, despite it's popularity, critical acclaim, and 
    my love for the Kettlehouse, I typically hate Cold Smoke.  I think it's low hoppiness and the extreme maltiness that make me think "cough syrup" rather than beer.</p>
<p>This, however, I would drink again.  Actually, of the Scotch Ale's that I've consumed, this is probably one of my favourites.  Take this as a compliment or a point to work on: I don't tend to like Scotch ales, but I enjoyed this one.  Maybe you messed up and produced something better (for me)?  On the other hand, this did immediately remind me of a Scotch Ale, so maybe it's not too far off the style?</p>
<p>I'm drinking this reasonably warm and slowly, and I'm looking for off flavours.  I'm really not tasting anything bad in here.  Actually, it's tasting quite good just a hair below room temp.  For reference, my pour temp was ~10 degrees Celsius.
</p>
<h3>Final verdict  - recommendations</h3>
<p>This beer is not God's Style (i.e. strong hops), but is tasty nevertheless (PS is a fan of highly hopped, Pale Ales - <em>GdW</em>).</p>
<p>I think you need a wort chiller.  A wort chiller should help you get some of the haze out of the beer.  This batch isn't bad, but I think you might be happier with a little higher clarity.  </p>
<p>Good work, I'd give it a good solid B+</p>]]>
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Brewing Diary: The Kettlehouse Stout</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://bangon.dewalters.net/articles/brewing-diary-kettlehouse-stout" />
    <id>tag:bangon.dewalters.net,2009://1.18</id>

    <published>2009-02-24T05:55:10Z</published>
    <updated>2009-02-25T20:40:15Z</updated>

    <summary>An old recipe from The Kettlehouse in Missoula gets the No. 8 Fencing Wire treatment....</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Gareth</name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Food and Drink" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-US" xml:base="http://bangon.dewalters.net/">
        An old recipe from The Kettlehouse in Missoula gets the No. 8 Fencing Wire treatment.
        <![CDATA[<h2>Introduction</h2>

<p>This was the first Extract/Speciality grain beer I brewed. The recipe below was recommended by  Arch Missoulian, PS, and orginates from a craft Brewery in Montana called <a href="http://kettlehouse.com/">The Kettlehouse</a>. The recipe calls for some ingredients which might not be readily available. As you can see from the notes below, I left out some of the grains and substituted another. I also had to swap New Zealand Stickbract for the unavailable (at my Home Brew Shop, anyway) Bullion hops. Given all these substitutions the end result will not resemble the beer orginally crafted by the brewers at The Kettlehouse. It was nevertheless a very enjoyable beer and I would recommend any fan of dark beers to try out this recipe. </p>


<h2>Ingredients</h2>
<h3>Grain Bill</h3>
<ul>
    <li>340 gm 120L Crystal Malt </li>
    <li>135 gm Roasted Barley</li>
    <li>340 gm Black Patent</li>
    <li>90 gm Black Barley </li>
</ul>
<h3>Malt Extract</h3>
<ul>
    <li>3.2kg Dark Malt</li>
</ul>
<h3>Hops and finings </h3>
<ul>
    <li>43 gm Bullion</li>
    <li>Irish Moss</li>
    <li>15 gm Willamette</li>
</ul>
<h3>Yeast</h3>
<ul>
    <li>Safale S-04 Dry Ale yeast</li>
    <li>Beer yeast enzyme</li>
</ul>
<h2>Target Bitterness</h2>
<ul>
    <li>Medium to high</li>
</ul>
<h2>Method</h2>
<p>This beer was brewed as per the method described in '<a href="/articles/the-how-to-brew-digest">The How to Brew Digest</a>'.</p>
<h3>Brewing notes</h3>
<p>I was unable to source Black Patent or Black Barley. Chocolate malt grain was used in the place of roasted barley. Also, Bullion hops were unavailable, so New Zealand Sticklebract was used, as this variety had similar bitterness (Alpha 11.9) has Bullion.</p><p>I used Munton's dark malt extract.</p>
<p>An immersion chiller was used to rapidly cool wort.</p>
<p>The brew was put down around October/November 2008. As it was approaching the middle of summer the beer brewed towards the mid to top end of yeast's range, i.e.: 18-21 degrees Celsius (probably a little on the warm side. I'll consider cooling the fermenter if brewing in similar temperatures).</p>
<p>The beer was bottled after three weeks in the primary fermenter and racked-off to secondary immediately before bottling to reduce the amount of sediment (of which there was a lot) that made it into the bottle.</p>
<h3>Tasting notes</h3>
<ul>
    <li>The beer was drunk fresh. It was bottle-conditioned for a minimum of two weeks.</li>
    <li>Moderate carbonation, excellent clarity (the wort chiller paid off) and good initial head</li>
    <li>Medium-bodied, crisp flavoured stout. Some chocolate notes, likely from the dark malt</li>
    <li>An abundance of fermentables resulted in a moderately high level of alcohol </li>
</ul>]]>
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>The How To Brew Digest</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://bangon.dewalters.net/articles/the-how-to-brew-digest" />
    <id>tag:www.dewalters.net,2008://1.6</id>

    <published>2009-02-21T23:40:05Z</published>
    <updated>2009-02-23T08:03:14Z</updated>

    <summary>Brewing your own beer is a rewarding experience, but difficult to get right. I describe a method to brew a fine tasting extract beer using specialty grains....</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Gareth</name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Food and Drink" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-US" xml:base="http://bangon.dewalters.net/">
        Brewing your own beer is a rewarding experience, but difficult to get right. I describe a method to brew a fine tasting extract beer using specialty grains.
        <![CDATA[<p>I first tried to brew my own beer in the mid '90s. At the time I was living in a student flat with three others. Being the simple creatures  we were, the  production of a  quality  beverage wasn't our prime concern. Quality was certainly welcome, but it was viewed more as a side-benefit. What we were interested in was producing the maximum volume of alcohol relative to our initial financial outlay. So, the most booze for our buck, then. </p>
<p>If my memory serves me right, this attitude was best exemplified by our brewing methodology. Straight away we deviated from our original plan to brew beer, and instead opted for cider. While browsing the Home Brew shop's range of tinned cider extracts we hit upon the idea of adding a wine kit to the mix. We reasoned that if one can of cider extract was good, then adding a wine kit could only make things better.</p>
<p>Our knowledge of basic brewing procedure was so poor that to us it might as well have been a lost art.  Our approach to sanitation was shoddy, and in hindsight likely contributed to some bottles of cider evacuating their contents immediately on opening. In these instances the loss of our valuable fermentables was only moderately offset by the spectacle of seeing 330mls of cider-wine form a quick and perfect column in the air before  spilling  over the floor. </p>
<p>These early batches clearly left me deeply scarred as  I didn't attempt beer brewing again until around 2006. AK and LD had very kindly bought me complete home brewing kit, including  a how-to book. I dutifully followed the instructions in the book, added the sugar, pitched the yeast, brewed the beer for 11 days, and then bottled the resulting liquid. I then conditioned the beer for three months before sampling it. While the tasting notes have long since been consigned to the bin, I can safely say I managed to produce a  very off-flavoured and likely infected beer. </p>
<p>I know I'm not alone in this. I've overhead other brewers at Home Brew shops  speak of the same miserable outcome. So how should you properly brew your own beer? First of all, I strongly recommend you read  John J. Palmer's <a href="http://www.howtobrew.com/"><cite>How to Brew</cite></a>. I was lucky enough to receive a copy of the latest edition from my brewing mentor PS. The first edition is available free online. This book provides a comprehensive background on the brewing process and steps the reader from  extract brewing to all-grain brewing. Once you've digested that information you might find useful the following 'cheat-sheet' on brew day (this method assumes you are brewing an extract beer using speciality grains). You will have more than enough to do on the day without having to flick through a book or navigate a website to check for the next step in the brewing process.</p>
<h3>How to brew beer</h3>

<h4>Preparation and tips </h4>
<ul>

    <li>Do some research to  find a good beer recipe. There are plenty online. Recipes are usually listed as either extract or all-grain versions. Beginners should stick to extract brewing until you are familiar with the brewing process. Consider brewing some sort of ale or dark beer
        <ul>
            <li>Don't attempt to brew a lager of you are: (a) new to the craft, or (b) if it is summer. </li>
        </ul>
    </li>

    <li>Don't bother buying beer kits. They're just pre-hopped cans of malt extract. Buy your own malt extract   and hops. This will allow you to hop your own beer and have more control over the taste of the end product</li>
    <li>Consider buying yourself an <a href="http://www.howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-4.html">extra fermenter</a>. The secondary fermenter can be used to brew a new batch while the other is fermenting, or you can use it to rack-off your beer before bottling to leave behind unwanted sediment </li>
</ul>

<h4>Method</h4>
<ol>
    <li>Clean all your equipment</li>
    <li>Sanitise all your equipment</li>
    <li>The day/night before you brew do the following:
        <ol>
            <li> clean and sanitise two three litre plastic containers, then fill them with cooled, boiled water and place in the freezer. </li>
            <li>If you haven't purchased pre-cracked grains then save yourself some time by cracking them the night before and store in an airtight container</li>
            <li>Create your yeast starter </li>
        </ol>
    </li>
    <li>Begin your brew by boiling 8.5 litres of water. Cool the water  (using either a water bath or wort chiller) then transfer it to your cleaned and sanitised fermenter (lightly close the top of the fermenter to keep out bugs in the air). You could pour the boiled water straight into your plastic fermenter, but if you are concerned about <a href="http://www.niehs.nih.gov/news/media/questions/sya-bpa.cfm">Bisphenol A</a> getting into your beer you might want to cool it first. </li>
    <li>Bring four litres of water up to 70 degrees Celsius plus or minus 10 degrees. Steep the speciality grains in the water for 30 minutes; agitate the grain bag as necessary </li>
    <li>Remove grain bag(s) and add then one 1.5 or 1.8 kg tin of  malt extract. Add extra water to bring the total volume up to 8.5 litres </li>
    <li>Bring the wort to the boil and hold for 60 minutes. Add hops at the times given in your recipe, e.g.: 20, 40 and 60 minutes</li>
    <li>Add Irish Moss to help break material fall out of your wort</li>
    <li>Remove  wort from the boil and  add the second tin of malt extract, stir thoroughly and wait 10 minutes  </li>
    <li>Cool your wort using either a water bath or wort chiller. Now add the ice  to the wort to knock out as much heat as possible, as fast as possible. Remember, your target temperature is within the range listed on your packet of yeast </li>
    <li>Once the wort is sufficiently cool add it to the water already in the fermenter to bring up to the desired volume, roughly 20 litres </li>
    <li>Aerate the wort</li>
    <li>Pitch the yeast, close the fermenter lid, transfer to a cool dark place and add cooled boiled water to the air-lock</li>
</ol>]]>
    </content>
</entry>

<entry>
    <title>Blind-alleys, mysteries and frayed ends</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://bangon.dewalters.net/articles/blind-alleys-mysteries-and-frayed-ends" />
    <id>tag:www.dewalters.net,2009://1.11</id>

    <published>2009-02-07T10:11:50Z</published>
    <updated>2009-02-21T00:44:28Z</updated>

    <summary>Family History research requires a lot of hard work. Hours of research can produce a formidable social history, or it might end abruptly in a dead end. This page lists some family history problems I can&apos;t solve....</summary>
    <author>
        <name>Gareth</name>
        
    </author>
    
        <category term="Family History" scheme="http://www.sixapart.com/ns/types#category" />
    
    
    <content type="html" xml:lang="en-US" xml:base="http://bangon.dewalters.net/">
        Family History research requires a lot of hard work. Hours of research can produce a formidable social history, or it might end abruptly in a dead end. This page lists some family history problems I can&apos;t solve.
        <![CDATA[<p>Family History research requires a lot of hard work. There are the visits to the libraries and the archives to scroll and flick through micro -film and -fiche. Countless hours, and not inconsiderable sums of money, are spent on accessing online census databases and birth, marriage and death indices. The dedicated researcher might even undertake field trips to remote cemeteries and neighbourhoods in which relatives once lived. All this work might produce a pretty impressive social history stretching back centuries in one contiguous line. Or, it might not.</p>
<p>As <a href="http://humphrysfamilytree.com/">Mark Humphrys</a> so ably puts it, "your family tree tends to either (a) end in obscurity after a few generations, or (b) goes on to connect with the vast, inter-connected web of medieval royalty and nobility in Europe, from which millions of people are provably <a href="#ref1" title="See references at the bottom of this page.">descended (i)</a>. My personal experience is that a promising line of research tend to lead to option 'a'; an abrupt halt.</p>
<p>Sometimes it is possible to restart a formerly dead line of inquiry. New information can make relevant facts that otherwise pointed nowhere. A new database might become available, as was recently the case with the <a href="http://www.1911census.co.uk/">1911 Census of England and Wales</a> (though at the time of writing much of the data pertaining to Wales is yet to be loaded into that site). Eventually, these sources are exhausted, or worse, yield no new information. When that happens the family historian might write a page like this one. A page which lists those blind-alleys, mysteries and frayed ends which trail off towards obscurtity. Of course, the hope is that you might see a link between your history and this one. If this is the case, then <a href="/contact/">get in touch</a>.</p>
<h3>Gwenllian Walters</h3>
<p>Gwenllian <a href="#ref2" title="See references at the bottom of this page.">gave birth (ii)</a> to David Lewis Walters on 22 July 1888 at the Union Workhouse, Llanelly, Carmarthenshire. At this time Gwenllian resided at <a href="http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?f=q&amp;source=s_q&amp;hl=en&amp;geocode=&amp;q=market+street+llanelli&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;ll=51.682867,-4.159269&amp;spn=0.006452,0.01811&amp;z=16&amp;iwloc=addr" title="Link to Google Maps UK.">Market Street, Llanelly</a> and worked as a Domestic Servant in Mount Pleasant, Llanelly. </p>
<p>David was for a time known by the nickname 'Dai Sam' as he was fostered by Thomas and Margaret  <a href="/familyhistory/samuel/">Samuel</a>. Margaret was Gwenllian's older sister. Once this sibling relationship was established it was possible to know Gwenllian's place and date of birth (Margam, 1868) and ancestors (see the '<a href="/familyhistory/walters/#gwenllian">Walters</a>' page for more information). </p>
<p>What is unknown is precisely what became of Gwenllian after 1888. Did see marry, emmigrate or die? There is no good eveidence that she married or died in Britain and so might have moved overseas. The 1891 Cenus of England and Wales <a href="#ref3" title="See references at the bottom of this page.">does list (iii)</a> a G. Walters working as a servant and probably also living at the Thomas Arms hotel, Old Road, Llanelli. This G. Walters was born at the right time and place to be a likely match for Gwenllian. Gwenllian is not listed in the 1901 Cenus of England and Wales, and I don't yet know if she is listed in the 1911 Census.</p>
<p>Do you have any information relating to Gwenllian Walters born about 1868, Margan, Glamorgan, Wales? If so, <a href="/contact/">please get in touch</a>. </p>
<hr class="hide">
<h3>Notes and references</h3>

<ol class="refList">
    <li id="ref1">This is not to suggest that I am interested in royalty. It is however undeniable that the genealogies curated by the European aristocracies are a valuable resource to family historians. If it is possible to prove your connection to one of these trees then your tree suddenly connects to a huge network of families. See Humphrys' '<a href="http://humphrysfamilytree.com/famous.descents.html#introduction">What is the point of Royal Descents</a>' for more on this topic.</li>
    <li id="ref2"><a href="http://www.freebmd.org.uk/">FreeBMD</a>: Births Sep. 1888, 	Llanelly,	11a,	857.</li>
    <li id="ref3"><a href="http://www.ancestry.co.uk/">Ancestry.co.uk</a>: 1891 Wales Census [database on-line]: Class: RG12; Piece: 4495; Folio 94; Page 23; GSU roll: 6099605.</li>	
</ol>]]>
    </content>
</entry>

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